Meet the proud new owners of one of Glasgow’s best-loved delicatessens.
Chef Craig Crozier, 31, from Dingwall, and his backer Scott Cherry, 39 – founder of PJ’s Foods in Maryhill – last month purchased Heart Buchanan from Fiona Buchanan, who founded the hugely successful business nine years ago. Although she will remain as a consultant for the first few months, she is to “take a step back and be a mum” to her little son Lucas, now 18 months old.
Buchanan is thrilled with the deal. “This is really exciting,” she says. “I have huge respect for Craig, and it’s time for him to step up on to the platform and show off his skills. I expect him to produce the best food in Scotland.”
“It happened extremely quickly,” says Cherry. “Craig and Fiona worked together last October but we did not discuss any purchase until February, and we’d done the deal by March 12. We were trading the next day.”
As Heart Buchanan is a going concern and has a loyal clientele, the men were keen not to make any drastic changes. “We don’t want to shock people, as we’re conscious of how hugely popular Heart Buchanan is,” they say.
It’s early days, and changes won’t be apparent for some time. They include modernising the kitchen and re-examining the internal space, though the name will not change. Both men credit Buchanan with founding a fantastic business, and acknowledge that over the nine years since Heart Buchanan opened, Scottish tastes have become more sophisticated and knowledge of food has increased. “The customer base has developed and it is time to introduce some changes,” says Cherry.
This is Crozier’s first solo venture, and it’s clear he is keen to get going. “There are so many things I want to do,” he says. He has been travelling the world for 10 years and learned butchery and fishmongery in Australian restaurants. He has worked in top kitchens in Spain and Italy, and aboard the Royal Scotsman train under Dan Hall, now the head chef at Blythswood Square, the new five-star hotel in Glasgow.
Crozier’s expertise is reflected in his new take-away menu. A smoked haddock and potato presse with beetroot, cassoulet of spring lamb with herbed breadcrumbs and a seafood Scotch broth reflect his devotion to local, seasonal produce. The private dining menu for the next-door space has also been changed to include Gloucester Old Spot pork belly from Sunnyside Farm in Sanquhar, with monkfish cheeks; and a ceviche of peat-smoked haddock with egg yolk bonbon – in which a deep-fried breaded yolk spills out over the fish when cracked open.
New suppliers are on board, including Ramsay’s of Carluke, Robin Gray of Arran herbs, Strathspey Mushrooms and Sunnyside farm, which will also supply Shetland lamb and Dexter beef.
There have been rumours that the new Waitrose store, directly opposite Heart Buchanan on Byres Road, has had a devastating effect on the retail side of the business. But Crozier and Cherry want to set the record straight. “When Heart Buchanan opened it was the only place you could find certain foods, and that’s what we want to return to,” says Cherry. “There’s no point selling what Waitrose sells. We have to exceed them by selling things they do not.”
Crozier says he is confident that he will be able to source small volumes directly and in season from small producers. “I will bring a fresh energy to the business to keep it going for the next 10 years and beyond.”
Visit www.heartbuchanan.co.uk.
From The Herald: http://www.heraldscotland.com/life-style/food-drink/meet-the-new-duo-at-glasgow-s-heart-buchanan-1.1020148
